Archive for August, 2013

Dance 10, Looks 3.

August 5, 2013

Butter, olive oil, mayonnaise, and anchovy paste. In eggs. These aren’t your average eggs, these are Craig Claiborne’s stuffed eggs. I finally made them tonight after bogging down in my months-long project to cook and rewrite my way through his Kitchen Primer and I’m eating a few of them now as I write this.

They’re not just loaded with fat, mind you, but along with that anchovy paste is Worcestershire sauce, and chives. These things, which are quite tasty, are like little egg white boats filled with umami. Lemon juice and salt – of course – push the umami right over the edge. Really, they’re very good. But with all that anchovy paste, a tablespoon mixed into just six egg yolks, the yolk filling – creamy and salty and flavorful – is a less than appetizing shade of brown. Not even a deep, library-walls-lined-with-leather-brown but more of a left-overs-in -the-back-of-the-fridge-for-the-past-three-months kind of brown. They’re really unattractive.

I know, I know. It’s shallow of me to criticize a dish solely on the basis of its appearance, especially when I know how good they taste (and especially given my recent infatuation with Catalan cooking which is entirely brown, except for those parts of it that are sort of beige colored).

I suspect Claiborne knew this and so, at the end of the recipe, he recommends decorating them with capers or truffles cut into little shapes. I’m not making that up. Star-shaped slices of truffle, while adding to the flavor, aren’t going to help these things look any more appetizing.

So, do I add the recipe to the blog I’m writing about Kitchen Primer? I will, for two reasons. One, they do truly taste very good. Two, the recipe is a good illustration of Claiborne’s tastes. But now I’m on the lookout for some rather more attractive recipes. Or just something that isn’t brown.